Truth in History on a Plate: Celebrating Indigenous Peoples' Day
By Isabelle Lishewski
Two of my favorite things about Portland are dive bars and delicious food, especially when the two are combined. But a Chef made, four-course plated meal at a Dive Bar on the other hand, now that is a first! So when I read about the event on the The Oregonian’s list of ways to celebrate Indigenous Peoples' Day in Portland, I knew I had to check it out.
The location, the New Checkered Flag Tavern, on SE 82nd is a very unassuming building from the outside. I have driven by it countless times and never thought twice about it. Walking in I felt instantly at ease and greeted by friendly faces behind the bar. As the small group of friends and strangers gathered on the cozy patio for dinner, Elizabeth, the owner, introduced herself to the unfamiliar faces, including myself. We chatted for a bit, and I learned she and Chef Ramon are friends and share similar goals in creating spaces of inclusion and fostering community.
Chef Ramon Shiloh is a multicultural chef, activist for Native youth, and an award-winning author and illustrator. He started the dinner with a surprise extra dish of steamed masa and chocolate mole. As we ate, he began to explain how his food is a form of activism. He cooks to share stories, cultivate understanding, connection, and resilience. Chef Ramon has a very down to earth and kind energy, and as the next courses were introduced, everyone started to embrace and understand his mission: “Challenging prejudice not with words, but with flavor, intention and history on a plate.”
The next two dishes, wild watercress salad with foraged wild mushrooms and green-chili hush puppies as well as stuffed poblano peppers should not be skipped over, however it was the frybread and coffee brined bison meat dish and the accompanying story, that stole the show. At fourteen years old, Chef Ramon participated in the ceremonial take down of a bison, something I could never fathom at that age, or any age for that matter. He explained that while he was an incredibly nervous teenager, tasked with salting the entire inside of the bison, he understood the importance of participating in the all-day event and, how ultimately, honorable and peaceful it was to end the Bison's life this way.
I had a general knowledge of Indigenous reverence for animals but hearing this story was awe-inspiring. Hearing such a personal account instantly led to a table discussion of our own food stories from our childhood. While I do not think any of us had nearly as intense of a story to share, it encouraged this group of strangers to share with one another our own connections to food, special people throughout our lives who’s cooking made a lasting impact and the importance in knowing where our food comes from.
As the dinner wrapped up with a sweet potato pancake dessert (paired a life-changing ancho chile blueberry sauce), I felt incredibly grateful for Chef Ramon and Elizabeth for curating this kind of event, they made sure everyone left with a full belly, heart, and leftovers! I really appreciated that it was an approachable plated meal and done so in a way that fostered casual and comfortable connection, in a place that I would never have known about otherwise.
Reflecting on my time working with Slow Food, I was reminded that these types of community gatherings are why I believe in the mission of Slow Food; everyone deserves good, clean fair food. And when the world seems so divided it is just nice to connect with other humans over something we all have in common, enjoying a delicious meal!
